It is still dark when Spain’s Archivo General de Indias opens its doors in late December. At this time of the year, morning temperatures in Seville can be chilly, a welcome contrast to the staggering heat of the city’s long summer months. This morning I can see my breath as I begin the 20-minute walk to the archive, winding through narrow streets and quiet plazas lined with orange trees. When I turn the corner at the end of Calle Don Remondo, I catch my first glimpse of St.
